Driving around 2.5 hours through the towns of Carhuaz and Shilla. We follow the road into the Ulta Valley where we drive up a steep zig zag to reach the impressive Punta Olimpica Tunnel at 4740m. The climb starts from the left side of the tunnel climbing up a rocky trail and over moraine rock, sometimes steeply, for around two hours until we reach the Mateo glacier where we put on our climbing gear and rope up. To get onto the glacier we have to initially climb up a 40m steep ice wall and the guide will fix a rope if necessary and help you with this. The rest of the route is a steady climb on mostly nice snow slopes up 40 to 50 degrees, mixed with some steep short sections of hard ice which the guide will help you with. It is around 2 hours climbing from the start of the glacier to the summit. On the broad summit you are rewarded with spectacular views of all the surrounding mountains and good photo opportunities.

We descend back the same way and drive Back to Huaraz.

Highlights

• Ideal acclimatization tour before higher peaks
• First summit attempt for beginners
• Sunrise with unforgettable views
• Climb to Mateo 5’150m

 Character
Mateo is a very attractive mountain and a great option for acclimatized trekkers who want to try a first attempt of a 5’000m peak. Also suitable for experienced mountaineers, in preparation for higher peaks. This is one of the only mountains that can be climbed from Huaraz in just one day. At the summit with its 5’150m you will be rewarded with great views of the Cordillera Blanca.

Requirements
Good physical condition, team spirit and willingness to leave your comfort zone. You should only consider these climbs if you are strong, with high fitness levels and able to carry a medium weight backpack on steep terrain over rocky, loose and uneven ground. In preparation for this trip, we recommend extensive walks and conditioning.

Best Season
The best trekking and climbing season in the Andes is from April to October, with rainy season in between. It is usually sunny and warm during this time. Due to the altitude, the nights can be quite cold (to minus 5 ° C).